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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.